HISTORIC HOMES OF THE TAIERI

TOUR COMPANION - My Aunty Jannette

House stalker partner in crime on board -check.

Babysitter sorted - check.

Lunch packed and weather looking good - check.

We were ready for an exciting and interesting day exploring 15 historic houses and buildings of the Taieri Plains. Many of these houses were completely unknown to me and I decide not to do any research beforehand. We head out to the Burns Lodge in Mosgiel to exchange our tickets for the information booklet and map and are quite pleased to see a large line of people waiting including many dressed in beautiful period costumes. A short wait in line and we have our instructions and head to Outram.

GLASTENBURY

OUTRAM- MOSGIEL ROAD

We easily find a park near the gate and wander down the driveway. Originally called Greenbank the home was built in 1868 using Baltic pine by Gilbert Buchanan. Mr Buchanan had arrived in Dunedin on the Philip Laing in 1848 with his parents and siblings. He worked in Dunedin for a while making footpaths and in June 1848 he traveled on foot with a group of men and a Maori guide to Edward Lee's station in Woodside to start work as a station hand. He spent 3 years there and in 1851 bought 117 acres of land on West Taieri. He married Elizabeth Dalziel on June the 20th 1857 and they had 9 children together before Elizabeth sadly died in 1872, aged 36, three weeks after giving birth to her 9th child. As I look around the garden I can imagine it very busy with their children all playing here. The house is a lovely wooden gabled home with dormer windows. The more recent addition to the side of the house blends well with it.. The owners have renovated the kitchen and living areas combining modern touches with the historic features of the house. Up the stairs to 2 rooms which apart from newly gibbed walls are still very original and decorated with beautiful period furniture. I'm sure Gilbert Buchanan would be pleased his family home is being looked after and loved 163 years after he built it. He died here on 24th February 1913 and is buried at West Taieri cemetery.

BALMORAL

HOLYHEAD ROAD, OUTRAM

We head over the Outram Bridge and turn up Holyhead Rd passing the newly built Balmoral subdivision and park just by the vast vegetable plots. I'm quite excited to get inside as I've always admired this home. We enter through the front door, with the kitchen on the left and dining and lounge on the right. These rooms are full of original features such as the lovely kauri doors and fireplaces. The wood paneling in the dining room is made from a Californian Sequoia tree. I'm actually quite surprised by the rooms, it's always looked like a large house and although the rooms are large they don't feel imposing. Balmoral has been in the Ferguson family since 1940 and in 1988 was given a grand facelift when it was moved a short distance from it's original site, turned 45 degrees to get better sunlight, painted white and the green tin roof replaced. Balmoral was built in 1857 by Donald Borrie who had arrived in Dunedin in 1852. He settled in Outram and in 1857 was appointed as the first Ferryman, supplied with a boat and could charge for his services of crossing settlers and ther their belongings across the river. By 1865 Mr Borrie completed the kauri 12 room house. In 1868 and 1877 the Taieri River flooded and both times Balmoral survived. Donald Borrie who had become a prominent settler in the Outram area died in 1883 Balmoral was leased to Mr and Mrs James Cullen until 1905 then to Mr and Mrs David Cullen who lived here until 1940. From 1914 - 1925 it was used for farm holidays.

THE RETREAT

LEE STREAM - OUTRAM ROAD

We drive through Outram and towards Woodside. Up the driveway to the property which is well hidden from the road. The Retreat is a classic villa, large bay window on the left and lovely verandah with great views out across the Taieri. I'm instantly comfortable here as I've lived in a few villas and really love the wide long hallways and well proportioned rooms. The hallway still has it's original patterned wallpaper, the lounge is to the left with the big bay window and original lights which were gas lit. To the right of the front door is Dr Cattans surgery with it's own separate entrance off the verandah. The bedrooms are all large with fireplaces and it looks like original windows. The kitchen is a warm cosy room with plenty of room for dining and complete with coral range. The ceilings throughout the house are all original and been beautifully preserved. Each room has a push button for summoning help from the kitchen. Outside the gardens surround the house with some interesting artefacts to discover. Not far from the house is the tiny gardeners shed complete with fireplace and the original barn beside it. The Retreat was built in 1862 as a a doctors residence. and was the well known home and surgery of Dr William Cattan who practiced here for 30 years. He died in in 1912 and is buried in the West Taieri cemetery. Since then there have only been 3 more owners who have done a fantastic job of preserving this lovely home. I'd move in tomorrow if I could!!

NORTH TAIERI CHURCH

WAIRONGOA ROAD, NORTH TAIERI

In the past I have got lost trying to find this church but today, thanks to the map on our tour booklet, we easily find it. We park outside for a quick lunch break then head in. We have a very quick look, admiring the Baltic pine floor and lovely ceiling, then start talking to Mr Huia Ockwell who is a long serving parishioner. Along with his wife Ngaire Ockwell he wrote In Pastures Green- North Taieri Presbyterian Church 1866-2016 so he knows everything there is to know about the church. We end up talking for about 30 minutes to Mr Ockwell as he is such an interesting man with many fascinating stories. The North Taieri church was originally a wattle and daub hut that was also the schoolhouse. This was situated near the gate leading to the manse. In 1865 Rev J M Davidson was inducted as minister for North Taieri and in 1866 North Taieri became a separate parish. The new church was designed by R A Lawson ( who designed over 40 churches in his career ) and was built on land that had been donated by Donald Reid ( more on him soon ) , it cost $1,400 to build and was completed in 1867. Reverend J M Sutherland had many trees and shrubs planted during his period as minister from 1874-1894. In 1929 the ivy that covered the church was found to be seriously damaging the building, it was removed and the church was roughcast. The North Taieri church celebrated it's 150th anniversary in 2016 and it looks like it will be here serving it's parishioners for many more years.

NORTH TAIERI MANSE

WAIRONGOA ROAD

Through a gate at the back of the church and up a path that leads us to the manse. The manse was built in 1867-68, not long after the church was completed. It was also designed by R A Lawson and as a fan of R A Lawson houses the manse reminds me of The Argeod ( 504 Queens Drive ), the lovely curved driveway with a low box hedge is quite an enchanting entrance. It seems like the house is quite a plain square house but there are many charming details.

We don't have access to inside the home so make do with glancing in the windows. We wander around the beautiful gardens and discover quite a large classic car collection amongst the outbuildings.

The manse was used by the churches ministers until 1919 then the students moved in!! Too be fair they were studying to become ministers at Knox College so were most likely well behaved and mature young men. It was bought in 1965 by the Craigie family who still own it today.

GREY LYON STONE COTTAGE

WAIRONGOA ROAD

We head up a long gravel driveway next to the church, we find a park in the paddock at the end and head up a small hill to the perfectly formed schist cottage. The schist was sourced from the surrounding hills by the first owner Duncan Stewart, a shepard who was employed by local landowner Allan Boyd. It was partly built in 1861 then the Gabriel's Gully goldrush happened which resulted in the men working on it heading off to try and make their fortunes. Sometime between 1862 and 1864 it was completed. By the 1930s the house had been abandoned and was frequently used as a place to sleep by swaggers that traveled around the area looking for casual work. The next owners allowed the Ventura Scouts to use the cottage, they tried to make improvements but constant vandalism meant they eventually gave up. Kevan and Lynette McAlwee bought the property for it's land not the derelict building which was being used by stock as shelter and had been badly damaged by old macrocarpa trees falling on it. In the mid 1990s they began to restore it and bought it back to it's former glory.

The first thing that strikes me is the location with amazing views across the plain to Saddle Hill, to our left is a picturesque gully ( called Stewart's Gully ) with a stream running through it. The cottage is made up of 3 rooms, we enter through the front door to a large sitting room with a fireplace at each end, the back of the house is the open kitchen/ dining/ bathroom, which some people found a bit unusual but the hippie in me didn't think it was a problem. Up the steep staircase to the bedroom which is large enough for 3 beds and is kept cosy by another fireplace. Everywhere you look is beautifully detailed craftsmanship, the macrocarpa trees were milled and used as window frames, repairing the upstairs floor and on the staircase. The balustrade was from a ship as it was the only one they could find that would fit the steep staircase. The furnishings are perfectly suited to the feeling of the house and a mix of eclectic and charming. Kevan and Lynette have done an amazing job restoring Grey Lyon.

SALISBURY WOOLSHED

WAIRONGOA ROAD

We hum and haw about seeing the woolshed as we spent a while at the cottage and time was not on our side. But we decide to have a quick look. We wander through the large wrought iron gates and up the tree lined driveway to be greeted by large imposing and very R A Lawson looking house. Sadly we don't get access to the house. We walk towards the woolshed but as the wind starts to pick up and feel a lot colder we decide we won't go inside (yes I regret it now and it made no sense ) but quickly have a look at the buildings from the outside. The side view of the house intrigues me and being the house stalker I am I try to see as much as I can as we walk back past the house.

Salisbury was the vast estate of Mr Donald Reid. He arrived in Dunedin in 1849 with his widowed mother and 2 brothers when he was 15 years old. By 1852 he had purchased land in Caversham to farm and by 1854 he had 200 acres. He married Miss Frances Barr in 1854 whom he had 8 children with. He purchased land at the foothills of North Taieri in 1857 and built a wattle and daub cottage on the property which he called Salisbury after the Salisbury Crags which overlook Edinburgh. In 1864 plans were drawn up by R A Lawson for a large residence and bricks were burnt in preparation but due to a substantial loss that year, caused by pleuro pneumonia outbreak amongst the cattle, the plans were scaled down to a more modest house. In 1873 new bricks were burnt and R A Lawson drew new plans up and the present house was built and is attached to the front of the small house. It has 14 rooms with a large entrance hall which features a semi circular staircase. The floors are kauri and the mantelpiece are white marble and black slate. A very grand home to show success. For the next 38 years Donald Reid as well as being a successful farmer and landowner he was a respected politician and businessman, in 1878 he established Donald Reid and Company a stock a station agency which had it's store and office in Lower High St. The business quickly grew and Mr Reid was managing director and chairman until 1918 when he retired leaving it in good hands. He died in 1919 and is regarded as the epitome of all that was best of the early settlers of Otago.

SALISBURY LODGE GROUNDS WAIRONGOA ROAD

A quick drive along the road to our next destination. I'm unsure what I'm expecting...some kind of a hunting lodge with a bit of a garden?? Well I was completely mistaken. Through the lovely arched entrance and up the tree lined driveway to be blown away by the most delightful and beautifully laid out garden.

The original house and grounds were established by Mr Abraham Doodeward in the 1920s. I did quite a bit of research but was unable to find out much about him, he was well known for his garden and won many prizes in local competitions for his flowers.

The current owners purchased the property in 1998, renovating the house extensively and adding a second story in 2007. The porch from the original house was saved along with the rose garden directly in front of it. To the right of the house the original stables for Salisbury have been rebuilt to use for extra accommodation and at the back of the property a newly built 3 storied garage comes with it's very own clocktower. We are unable to access the house and outbuildings, although I'm slightly disappointed, I'm quite content wandering around the stunning gardens discovering many interesting features.

FINDLAYSTON

DUKES ROAD NORTH

Just past the Taieri A & P grounds we turn down a long straight driveway, this was the track of the old Outram-Mosgiel railway line, but now leads us to Findlayston. Built in 1870 using totara with bricks between the studs. It was then lined with tongue and groove. The current owners have renovated the house to suit more modern living, opening up 3 rooms into 1 large living room. The stables are to the right of the driveway and still has the original brick floors.

John Findlay arrived in Dunedin in 1857 from Melbourne after spending 6 years at the Ballarat goldmines. He purchased 457 acres of land which was pretty much swamp land, built a small 2 room sod house, got busy draining the swamp and preparing it for farming. In 1870 he married Elizabeth White whom he was 5 children with, the house was built shortly after their marriage. After his death in 1908 the farm was passed down to 2 of his sons James and Charles who sold the property around the 1930s.

MAYFIELD

BUSH ROAD

As this part of Bush Road is too narrow for cars to park we go to the Otago Woolbrokers Yard for parking. We walk along to Mayfield and are greeted by a classic villa with bay windows on every side. Surrounding the house is a lovely country garden full of pretty flowers and attractive shrubs. The new owners bought the property in 2017 and quickly got to work removing overgrown trees and vine to bring more sunshine onto the dark house. The last 6 months have been spent renovating the house which had a leaking roof, was uninsulated and needed some love and care. They removed the 4 double chimneys so bedroom walls could be realigned and stripped the walls of it's original scrim and tar and horse hair sarking. I love the wide hallway that runs the length of the house and leads to the large bright open plan living area with modern kitchen. The bedrooms are well proportioned with some lovely character features while the bathrooms feel very sleek and luxurious. Mayfield was built around 150 years ago by Alexander Todd, owner of the Islington estate, for his extended family. In 1898 the estate was subdivided and Mayfield was bought by William Kirk and remained the Kirk family home for many many years. The hard work that has gone in restoring Mayfield will surely ensure it's around for another 150 years.

ISLINGTON ESTATE

BUSH ROAD

A short walk along the road to the grand entrance to the Islington estate. The intricate gates lead us up the driveway for our first glimpse of the large home. Islington was established by Alexander Todd and his family in 1859 who had arrived in Dunedin on the Mooltan in 1849. Mr Todd was born in Glasgow and up to arriving in Dunedin was a very successful banker. He arrived in Dunedin with his wife, 5 children, a married couple who were his servants, an Ayrshire cow and various farm implements determined to farm in his new country. Initially they settled in Andersons Bay then purchased land on the very swampy Taieri Plains, built a house and got to work turning the swamp land into farm land. Alexander Todd died in 1886 and the estate was passed down to his sons

By 1912 only his youngest son William Cuthbert Todd was living, he moved the original house further down the road and built the house we see standing before us. Mr Todd was obviously influenced by the late Victorian/ Art Nouveau style as we can see many of the features typical of this style. As we stand outside I instinctively feel this house is going to be very special inside and as we walk inside I'm proven right. My jaw drops and i repeatedly say wow, I overhear someone saying this the best house they've ever seen so I know it's not just me impressed. The entrance hall is stunning and leads to the formal living rooms which feature impressive fireplaces and 100 year old cast iron radiators. The ground floor master suite make use of previously underutilized rooms and feel very luxurious. The extension is a very large and spacious English style conservatory which consists of the kitchen/ pantry and open casual and formal living areas. I find it quite deceiving as although I know it's new features like the atrium roof and detailed cornices make it feel like it's been part of the house forever. Up the stairs to 2 of the most charming children's bedrooms I've ever seen, guest bedroom and a study with fantastic views over the grounds. The main bathroom has a stunning copper and nickel bath and the attic space which was previously the billiard room is the perfect playroom. Outside the vast grounds include formal garden areas, 150 year old trees, tennis court, a large bbq area and, my favourite feature, a Peter Rabbit vegetable garden surrounded by a white picket fence. Although we don't want to we reluctantly leave, more places to see and time is not on our side.

EAST TAIERI MANSE

CEMETERY ROAD

I've been to East Taieri church a couaple of times and I've managed to never notice the manse positioned at the rear of the church. The first manse was a 2 room cottage built in 1855 and located on property owned by the church which is now part of Wallis Nurseries. In 1877 it was decided that this manse was too remote so it was sold and 2 acres of land adjacent to the church was purchased to build a new manse on. Designed by Nathaniel Wales the 2 storied triple brick villa has bay windows and veranda The original roof was slate which has been replaced with tiles. Reverend William Will and his children were the first residents and made It into a welcoming home. In 1976 the Presbyterian Church considered selling it but instead invested in extensive renovations. More renovations were completed in 2003 when the ground floor layout was changed to make the homes living areas more suited to modern living. Many of the unique features still remain such as the ornate moulded plaster cornices, picture railings in every room, original internal doors and double hung sash windows. There's also many historic artifacts but unfortunately we don't have enough time to have a good look.

EAST TAIERI CHURCH

CEMETERY ROAD

We regrettably could only spend a short amount of time looking around the East Taieri Church which is a shame as I would've liked to of spent more time having a good look at 11 memorial windows which were designed and executed by Mr J W Brock. The church was designed by R A Lawson and was completed in 1870 , it was added to the rear of the first church/school that was built in 1853 on this site. In 1854 Reverend William Will was appointed minister of the Taieri parish which at the time stretched from Green Island to Waihola and out to Waipori. Reverend Will was a very busy man and when gold was discovered in 1861 the population rapidly grew and the need for new ministers became urgent so he traveled back to Scotland on a recruiting mission, he returned successful and the 1 large Taieri parish was divided into 7. Reverend Will resigned in 1899 after 45 years of service to his congregation and church. I look forward to coming back for a more leisurely look around.

BURNS LODGE AND HOLY CROSS CENTRE

CHURCH STREET

We arrive with just enough time to spare and get a park right outside Burns Lodge and walk into the original house, the entrance hall is massive with a gorgeous chandelier and impressive staircase. The 4 rooms leading off the hall are all very large with bay windows and period fireplaces. Upstairs are 9 bedrooms spread over 2 floors but we don't access to them. We walk through to the newer buildings to the chapel, the first thing my eye is drawn to is the amazing coffered ceiling, I really like the brightly coloured stained glass windows and the acoustics are fantastic. We wander down the long corridors having a nosy in various rooms including the small bedrooms used by the early students.

The property originally belonged to Arthur J Burns, son of Rev Thomas Burns, who arrived in Dunedin on the Phillip Laing in 1848. The house was built in the early 1870s , costing between $6,000 and $8,000, using the best quality materials . Named Mossgiel House after his uncle's ( Robert and Gilbert) farm in Ayrshire, Arthur Burns only lived here with his family for a short time before selling it. In 1899 the house and 11 acres of land were purchased by the Most Rev Bishop of Dunedin, Dr Michael Verdun to use as a training seminary and was named Holy Cross College. The chapel was added in 1901 and in 1906 work began on the south wing addition. Over the years other buildings were built to accommodate the growing needs of the seminary. In 1998 it became a convention centre for community and cultural groups.